Off Phuket's eastern side there's a small island with no resorts, go-go bars or tuk-tuks. It's a place where children ride bikes, where fish and rubber trees are mainstays of income and beaches are lined with homes instead of umbrellas. Koh Maphrao remains a little-visited time warp.

The only public access to "Coconut Island" is a boat from Laem Hin fishing port. Once across the 2-kilometre stretch of water, visitors can hire a motorbike to the village centre for Bt15.

This mostly Muslim community remains largely untouched by the tourism that has transformed Phuket.

About 150 families make up the island's population, most of whom work on the rubber plantations or as fishermen.

Wallop Khamhaeng, of Koh Kaew Tambon Administration Organisation, said tourist traffic remained low because it lacked basic facilities, such as electricity. Koh Maphrao isn't on the Phuket power grid;:most of the power comes from small solar panels.

Untouched beauty

The beaches are not as long as those at Patong or Nai Harn, but are refreshingly empty of beach chairs and sun-soaked bodies. Crabs stray across sand still strewn with seashells, yet to be picked clean by tourists.

Local motorcycle-taxi driver Ason Abdulamum says the most beautiful beach is Yao or "Long" Beach, though it's only about 30m long.

"Not many people come to this beach because it is at the back of Koh Maphrao, but some days small tour groups visit. It's a favourite fishing spot for locals," he said.

There are a couple of small restaurants serving standard fare. Visitors are usually day-trippers who pedal a rented pushbike, taking in the village life. However, there are two home-stays for those wanting to spend a night.

By Sangkhae Leelanapaporn

Phuket Gazette